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The greatest city in the Islamic world sprawls across the Nile towards the Pyramids, those supreme monuments of antiquity. Every visitor to Egypt is mesmerised by the cultural and sensual intensity of Cairo, with its bazaars, mosques and citadels and every strand of Egyptian society unravelling within this vast city of 20 million. In Cairo's streets, medieval trades and customs co-exist with a contemporary, cosmopolitan mix of Arab, African and European influences. Just outside the city boundaries, the immense pyramids cast imposing shadows across the fringes of the desert.